AFRICAN SAFARI, AFRICAN OPENNESS
It's been 6 weeks since we left Canada for Africa. We had the trip of a lifetime, both on our safaris in Kenya and Tanzania and amongst the Masaai and people of these two beautiful countries. Brian and I stayed 5 days in Kenya in two absolutely stunning Masaai conservancies on the edge of The Masaai Mara and enjoyed our own guide and truck for 10 days in 3 Game Reserves in N. Tanzania - Tarangire Elephant Reserve, Ngorongoro Crater and The Serengeti.
We had a few bumps along the way, too. I had a low grade 24 hour gastro illness right away in the Mara, we lost 2 of our bags for 3 days ( no hairbrush?!) , our truck got stuck in a hole in Tarangire for 2.5 hours while we worked feverishly to somehow get it out and avoid being eaten by night time predators (That's quite a story and another blog post), and I got violently ill 24 hours before we were to fly home and was delayed in Nairobl for 72 hours. But these bumps did not in any way ruin our trip. They contributed to the adventure and the receiving of incredible kindness from Masaai warriors and other Africans who were there to help us and gave to us warmly and freely from their hearts, as only they know how to do.
Here's a map in case you would like to get your bearings. I am, too, to tell you the truth. In some cases we flew by small planes between places, in others we were driven or had our own truck and driver. I never knew where we were other than right where we were in the moment. That's a wonderful feeling especially when you are taken such good care of, as we were, at every step. Absolute freedom to enjoy.
On the map you will see the Masaai Mara in the south of Kenya butting up against the Serengeti in the north of Tanzania. As well have a look for Tarangire National Park and Ngorongoro Crater in the northern part of Tanzania. We spent time, with friends from last safari , on Lake Victoria, in the village near Mwanza, and in the school. Here we sat with them outside their homes, met their mamas, shared a meal, went on a boat ride and saw the house that our good friend is building with such dedication and determination by himself, in his spare time when he is not teaching in the school full time....without a salary. The American woman who used to pay salaries abruptly and without warning stopped sending money 18 months ago. Now he is fishing after school hours to make an income and has opened a shop which his wife runs. He is amazing in his striving for a better life, his hard work and his inspiration. We spent our final week on Lamu Island, N. of Mombasa in Kenya. Here we stayed in Shela Village near Lamu Town. Lamu Town is the most intact ancient village in Africa. Incredible and Shela, too has much local color and character. In both villages feet, donkey and boats are the only modes of transport. A gorgeous barely used 12 kilometer beach sits on one side of these villages. Do not believe that bad press about Somalia and el-Shabab wreaking havoc here in Lamu. It is safer than your backyard on Lamu Island. I was scared but our amazing tour organizer from Gamewatchers Safaris, Julie Roggow, assured us we would be safe. After anxiety rearing it's head occasionally for months before we left, we arrived to feel completely safe with very friendly people, incredible local culture, narrow alleyways, beautiful children, donkeys and total quiet. Heaven!
Have a look at the map, if you are curious. Lamu Is. is just to the right of the A in word Kenya on the map
When I left for the trip I was recognizing my blossoming love and commitment to this planet, to the amazing nature we are blessed with and part of. I felt completely at home out on the plains of Africa experiencing the animals, the landscape. 6000 pictures!! I craved to know more, to be close to the lions, and elephants, to all of the animals. We were at close quarters many times to a lioness or leopard. A little farther for elephants but in a couple of cases they were right at the back of our truck. We saw hunts where lions and leopards missed more often than they succeeded. And hunts where they did succeed. I was face to face with my dislike of the dark side of reality. And was again reminded that death is part of life, that we live a very sanitized life in the West where we can feed the illusion that we have complete control and can avoid the "unpleasantness."
This control we believe we have creates us being cut-off from each other because it is not the truth. We can buy "stuff", we can do multiple technical medical testings in an effort to cheat death, we can make our homes nicer and nicer - in effect we cut ourselves off from the realities of our place in nature, from our true nature, from our oneness with nature, and from the precariousness of life on earth. This allows us to ignore the fact that we are destroying our planet at a very fast pace. This keeps us disconnected at the deepest level from each other.
In Africa there is little medical attention available. Feet are the main transport for the vast majority of people. Work hours, if you are one of the lucky 40% employed, are 16 hours with 1-2 hours travel back and forth to your home, or 1 month away from home with 5 days to visit your wife and kids and then back to the job -- and meagre pay. Yet the Africans we met, as in 2014, are the most centered, warm, generous, deeply connected and community-oriented people I have ever met. With so little, their hearts are wide open. Here in the west, with so much, our connections to each other are thin and hard to maintain and find. We carry shame and invalidation, competition and jealousy, lack of self-trust. In Africa, people stand tall and warmly centered in themselves, wise about life and themselves, accepting of themselves and each other. It is beautiful and a joy to be around. I commented to one of the waiters in our hotel about the connections between Africans and their willingness to be open to us. He said, when there is so little they must rely on each other. As an example, he did not have the 500 K. shillings, or 50c., for the bus to get to work that morning. He would have had to walk 8 miles to work, been late and lost his very good job as a result. His friend lent him the money and he will do the same when needed. We tipped generously everywhere we went, hoping others were doing the same for these deserving people who served us so generously and kept us safe.
This young man at 24 yrs. has a very professional and good job as a waiter in a good hotel restaurant. He knows the unemployment rate is 60%. He works long hours everyday of the week to bring home something for his wife and child. And as far as I can see, these fine, hard-working humans never complain. They smile, they are warm to us, open and kind. When I wondered about their good humour in the face of such long hours and distance many times from their families (essentially complaining for them), they said over and over again, they want the tourists to be happy, because tourism is what gives them a job. Here in the dysfunctional West we are ever grasping for more stuff, better jobs, bigger cars, on and on - dissatisfied all too often. He is happy to have this job, no further dreams and prospects exist. Oh, yes, there is dysfunction in Kenya and Tanzania too, of course. But it is not in the hearts of the people.
In Nairobi there is a slum, the biggest slum in Africa. 1.5 million people in ramshackle corrugated metal and cardboard "homes." No work, no water, no sewage treatment, no food. The slum stretches across the whole of one side of Nairobi. I know everyone is not smiling. There is too much suffering. The unemployment rate is 60%. But the spirits of the people have a long-time, generational depth of care, connection, and self-connection that I envy. I came home determined to remember this, to remember how easy it was to connect in Africa, what a joy that it is to be around that. I came wanting to remember that I am worth knowing in spite of the difficulty of meeting people in isolated Vancouver. I came home wanting to open my heart and be more willing, too, to remember what is important. I hope I can maintain it.
Alfred, who served us, befriended us and took care of us. And Ziro our amazing chef, who did the same. In Shela at Fatuma's Tower where we stayed, on Lamu Is. The sent home a gift for our son.
Capt. Babu, who let Brian steer the absolutely gorgeous Dhow, on 2 out of 3 cruises we took
Kids, kids, and more gorgeous kids.
Ali, who caught our boat back to Shela...a funny story for later. We talked all about life in 20 mins.
A school group we picked up when we dropped Ali off in Shela. I took their pictures and showed them to them. I also showed them some of my safari pictures of animals. They were so bright and curious, open to meeting us.
Peter, we bought a work of art from him and met him again on a boat.
Ali, captained one of the many boats used to transport people and goods between Shela and Lamu. What a big heart and spirit. He was captaining the boat with the school kids above that took Ali back to Shela. It was a really fun boat ride for us. We didn't get anywhere very fast but we had a blast meeting people and kids.
Part of the wonderful team there to say goodbye as we left Porini Mara Camp for Porini Lion Camp.
Josephat, our amazing Masaai Guide and a wonderful human being at Porini Lion Camp. The best of the best, truly.